Collecting Mamiya 35mm Forum
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Apr 28th, 2017, 8:29pm



Welcome to Ron Herron's
Collecting Mamiya 35mm Cameras Forum!

A continuation of the original Forum that started on January 15, 2001


This Forum was created to allow discussions related to the collection, use, repair and service of vintage Mamiya 35mm Film Cameras. It's also a place to show and discuss the images we create with them, digital uses for Mamiya lens, and lots more! Join us, and share in this great hobby! Guests are welcome to visit and view all discussions. However, in order to post a comment or picture you need to register as a Forum Member (it's free).

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Total results: 10


 1   General Information / Re: nc 1000 bellows  on: Apr 12th, 2017, 8:54pm
Started by jeffpix | Post by leonAzul
on Apr 12th, 2017, 05:15am, jeffpix wrote:
Thanks for your suggestions. I'm currently using a Sinar rig but I thought a slightly smaller format would be less cumbersome for shooting negs with digital camera. I'd hate to have to take a grinder to this little jewel. One thing I really like about it is the film copying unit with the flip back diffuser that has rise/fall. It appears that this bellows set is identical to the Contax version which sells for $$$ on ebay. I'll take your suggestion and head over to the Fotodiox site.


I'm glad I could help.

Just to be clear, I was suggesting grinding out the adapter, not the original part. =^0


 
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 2   General Information / Re: nc 1000 bellows  on: Apr 12th, 2017, 05:15am
Started by jeffpix | Post by jeffpix
Thanks for your suggestions. I'm currently using a Sinar rig but I thought a slightly smaller format would be less cumbersome for shooting negs with digital camera. I'd hate to have to take a grinder to this little jewel. One thing I really like about it is the film copying unit with the flip back diffuser that has rise/fall. It appears that this bellows set is identical to the Contax version which sells for $$$ on ebay. I'll take your suggestion and head over to the Fotodiox site.
 
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 3   General Information / Re: cs bellows  on: Apr 11th, 2017, 8:56pm
Started by slackadocious | Post by leonAzul
on Jan 26th, 2017, 07:03am, malare wrote:
I have compared with a ZE-bellows which I own, and it looks like it really is a CS-bellows in that sale.

BTW. The first bellow among the pictures is a XTL-bellows and the other one is a M42 bellows.

Many regards Per Malare


Also, I strongly suspect that the macro stand would be more useful if it were attached in front of the lens instead of behind the camera wink
 
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 4   General Information / Re: nc 1000 bellows  on: Apr 11th, 2017, 8:30pm
Started by jeffpix | Post by leonAzul
on Apr 8th, 2017, 4:08pm, jeffpix wrote:
I recently acquired what appears to be a Mamiya NC1000 Auto Bellows unit (tilt/swings + double cable release), Slide Copier and Bellows Stand as shown at:

http://www.butkus.org/chinon/mamiya/mamiya_nc1000/mamiya_nc1000-3.htm

They're in mint condition and in the original styrofoam slabs (bellows stand has original outer box). I was going to hack it to fit Sony Alpha mount and enlarging lens but it's such a beautiful set I hate to see it mauled.
Any offers... or suggesting how it can be adapted to Sony A mount without destroying it.
I have fond Mamiya memories having started with a 1000DTL, graduated to a C330 and ended with an RZ.



Welcome. Congratulations on your good fortune. Hopefully someone with more complete experience will happen by and can answer your questions more definitively.

In several other threads I have noted that Fotodiox has made adapters from Ma/Ze lenses (E and EF series) to various digital cameras, including Sony Alpha (Minolta AF-mount). Because the Mamiya bayonets are roughly compatible rear caps and the infamous bubble cases for the ES series are interchangeable it's worth a try in your case. In another thread the result was not satisfactory, but that was with a lens, not an appliance.

If you have played with this rig at all, you will have noticed that the bayonet can be rotated by loosening a set screw. What is undocumented is that with another turn or so the collar can be completely removed, opening up the possibility for fabricating multiple camera adapters for the same standard. If it were me, I would start with a Pentacon-6 to Sony A adapter and open up the P-6 end with a grinder, then drill and tap a hole for the set screw. wink To be sure, other solutions involving 3D printing or metal lathe work also exist that don't require mutilating the original rig, based on this connection.

At the other end, all you need is a Mamiya P-adapter, a M42 to M39 reduction ring, and a large number of enlarger lenses are immediately compatible. With a little luck, some of them might even be useful for portrait work, and with a bag instead of a bellows, architectural if not landscape.

When I became interested in movements, I went in a slightly different direction. All things considered, I came to the conclusion that the M645 rig would be more flexible and more useful for me. For one thing, I already had a good sample of M645 C series lenses, most notably the C 45/2.8 S, the C 70/2.8, and the C 210/4.0 N.

The consideration is this: when movements are involved, it is desirable to use lenses designed for formats at least one "size" larger than the target. For example, for an APS-C sensor, satisfying tilt-shift photography needs a lens designed for 36 mm x 24 mm, and better yet 6 cm x 4.5 cm or 6 cm x 6 cm. In my case, using a M645 bellows opened up the use of medium format and enlarger lenses in the front and 6x4.5cm, 36x24mm, APS-C, and 4/3rds cameras in the back.

If I had not had the M645 lenses, I would have pursued the enlarger lens route like you because this covers even more potential than what I have.

So these are my thoughts and I hope they are helpful. Please let us know what works or doesn't work for you.



 
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 5   General Information / nc 1000 bellows  on: Apr 8th, 2017, 4:08pm
Started by jeffpix | Post by jeffpix
I recently acquired what appears to be a Mamiya NC1000 Auto Bellows unit (tilt/swings + double cable release), Slide Copier and Bellows Stand as shown at:

http://www.butkus.org/chinon/mamiya/mamiya_nc1000/mamiya_nc1000-3.htm

They're in mint condition and in the original styrofoam slabs (bellows stand has original outer box). I was going to hack it to fit Sony Alpha mount and enlarging lens but it's such a beautiful set I hate to see it mauled.
Any offers... or suggesting how it can be adapted to Sony A mount without destroying it.
I have fond Mamiya memories having started with a 1000DTL, graduated to a C330 and ended with an RZ.


 
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 6   Mamiya 35mm - SERVICE & PARTS INFO / Re: Mamiya CS 50mm f/1.7 Fungus removal  on: Mar 6th, 2017, 03:44am
Started by LooseyGoosey | Post by leonAzul
on Mar 4th, 2017, 07:36am, LooseyGoosey wrote:
Of course I removed the front ring grin grin


I was pretty sure of that but didn't want to make any assumptions grin

I don't own this particular lens, or any CS series lenses, but if it is constructed like the E 50/1.7, the threaded ring/nut is in the back.
 
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 7   Mamiya 35mm - SERVICE & PARTS INFO / Re: Mamiya CS 50mm f/1.7 Fungus removal  on: Mar 4th, 2017, 07:36am
Started by LooseyGoosey | Post by LooseyGoosey
Of course I removed the front ring grin grin

Here is an image of the front of the group:

User Image

You'll notice the fungus on the bottom left of the front element. The outer notches are for removing the whole group front the lens body. The inner stepped ring holds the front element in place - that is where the problem lies!
 
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 8   Mamiya 35mm - SERVICE & PARTS INFO / Re: Mamiya CS 50mm f/1.7 Fungus removal  on: Mar 3rd, 2017, 11:22am
Started by LooseyGoosey | Post by leonAzul
on Mar 2nd, 2017, 09:10am, LooseyGoosey wrote:
Hi guys,

Ive started to clean up some of my old lenses so I can use them on my NC1000s. I have a beautiful 50mm that has some fungus underneath the front element.

I've removed the front lens group but I can't seem to separate the group to get access to the bottom of the front element. There aren't are spots to insert my spanner wrench & I've tried a rubber stopper with pressure.Can anyone help with some knowledge?

Thanks in advance,

Goose


A photo might be helpful. I can't imagine how you removed the whole cell without first removing the decorative ring.

As a last resort, you might need to CAREFULLY drill two small holes in the ring for the pointy bits of the spanner to fit in.
 
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 9   Mamiya 35mm - SERVICE & PARTS INFO / Re: ZM battery cartdridge  on: Mar 3rd, 2017, 10:55am
Started by bghomofaber | Post by leonAzul
on Mar 2nd, 2017, 4:30pm, bghomofaber wrote:
Got another ZM in excellent condition, with 28mmE 3.5 wide angle, another 50mm 1.7 and a tamron zoom (46a) with fungus but with a nice adapter (I swear the tamron I'm cleaning just now is the last one .. this will stay in a dry sealed box for a while, tamron zooms are not difficult to open and dismantle and then remount but lenses never really clean. In comparison I could clean the three original mamyia lenses I have now with a few passes of pure ethanol. tamron lenses actually seem to release filth when cleaned with ethanol, while all my other lenses, canon, contax, leica, clean in a pass or two).



Good news about finding a donor so quickly.

Sorry to hear about your bad luck with Tamrons.
 
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 10   Mamiya 35mm - SERVICE & PARTS INFO / Re: ZM battery cartdridge  on: Mar 2nd, 2017, 4:30pm
Started by bghomofaber | Post by bghomofaber
Got another ZM in excellent condition, with 28mmE 3.5 wide angle, another 50mm 1.7 and a tamron zoom (46a) with fungus but with a nice adapter (I swear the tamron I'm cleaning just now is the last one .. this will stay in a dry sealed box for a while, tamron zooms are not difficult to open and dismantle and then remount but lenses never really clean. In comparison I could clean the three original mamyia lenses I have now with a few passes of pure ethanol. tamron lenses actually seem to release filth when cleaned with ethanol, while all my other lenses, canon, contax, leica, clean in a pass or two).

I finally saw a battery holder, the two batteries are connected in series that's why i couldn't use my improvised adapter I had done some days ago.

I think making a correct one won't be difficult just need a small piece of spare teflon and some junk metal. Files I have plenty.


 
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